Diaries of a Border Jumper ...

2005-09-15T21:06:00.000-07:00

The Land of the Morning Calm

"You must even cross the great rivers and sea to see what it's like." Korean Proverb

On a bitter cold morning, nearly ten years ago, I left Seoul, South Korea for the last time. The night before had left behind a light snowfall that had blanketed the capital city. Amid the hustle and bustle of Seoul I visited a Buddhist Temple to capture the snowfall.

My Korean experience started in 1992. I would spend the next two years of my life in small Korean towns not easily found on a map. I was submerged in the Korean Culture. I slept on a mat on the floor, ate Korean food, learned the Korean Language, and amazingly enough thought and dreamed in Korean. Things that I had found difficult about living in Korea eventually became things that I hated to leave behind. For two years I served as a Church Missionary across the South Korean peninsula.

I returned to South Korea on several occasions for the next few years to travel the country and see old friends. Korea a country that was once so foreign became very familiar. Living among the Korean people and speaking their language gave me a whole new understanding of the country. I have often heard that in order to really understand a country and its people you have to speak their language.

I have not been back to since Korea since I left on that snowy morning in 1996. When I make it back to that side of the world I am going to get a hot bowl of Kim Chee Chee Gay. An Young Hee Key Say Yo ....

Daejae Kum Kuy Say Yo

2005-09-10T17:17:00.000-07:00

My Time in Nam

"I know I'm going to heaven because I've already been to hell: Vietnam."

In the early 90's, possible 1992, Vietnam opened its doors to international tourist. In 1995 I was in South Korea and looking for someplace off the beaten track. Destination Vietnam.

Through a travel agent in South Korea I was able to get a tourist visa for Vietnam. After a stay in Hong Kong, and Thailand I landed in Saigon, modern day Ho Chi Min City.

Here is where the adventure began. Foreign tourist were still a new thing in Vietnam. The only Americans who I had personally known to have been to Vietnam were US soldiers who fought in the war. I had traveled to several countries in Asia at this point, but felt a bit of nervousness as I arrived in Vietnam. I exchanged somewhere around fifty US Dollars and recieved more than 1,000,000 Vietnamese Dong.

I quickly became loston the streets of Saigon. I found a hotel for just a few dollars a night. Vietnam was pretty fascinating. Near the river there were bars that looked like they came out of the Vietnam War movies. Complete with names like "Good Morning Vietnam" and "Apocalypse Now". It couldn't be more surreal with American rock playing and pictures of US Choppers painted on the ceilings. There was mostly a foreign crowd but as far as I could tell I took pride in being the only American there. After a dangerous night, of pure stupidity, and lucky to still have my life I made it back to my hotel curtisy of a $1 rickshaw ride.

Its been nearly a decade since I traveled to Vietnam so the details get a bit murky. After a few days in the country I set out for a tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels.

From worldtravels.com, "The Cu Chi Tunnels system is an underground network of tunnels dug in the 1940s by the Vietnamese as a place to hide during the fight against the French. The network was later expanded and used in the American War. The system consists of more than 150 miles (250km) of tunnels and unlit offshoots, secret trap doors connecting narrow routes to hidden shelters, local rivers and tunnels to the Cambodian border. It was a sprawling city of improvised hospitals, living quarters, kitchens and fresh water wells, with some tunnels barely large enough to wriggle through. The plan was to launch surprise assaults on the enemy, and then disappear; so successful a hiding place were the tunnels that first the French and then the Americans struggled against these sudden attacks in which the assailants seemed to vanish into fresh air. Today many of the tunnels have been enlarged to allow visitors the dirty and claustrophobic experience of crawling through a portion of the underground network, past secret trapdoors and booby traps laid against invasion. Unfortunately their popularity with visitors has turned the area into a vicious tourist trap, with hard-sell vendors a constant hassle among the touring throngs."

The tunnels were really something to see. The entrances were pretty fascinating in and of themselves. You had to be pretty slim, or Vietnamese, to get though the entrance and once the top was placed back into place it became nearly impossible to see.

I managed to crawl through the enlarged tunnel for the enlarged Westerners and see the recreated underground network. There were also areas where the tunnel has been left in its original state. Without a flashlight myself and a few either crazy or brave foriegners ventured into this tunnel. The tunnel was so small I could not crawl on my hands and knees but had to lie down and squirm my way through. It was quite an experience having to feel the walls to find your way out. I tried not to think of any snakes or who knows what else could be living in those claustraphobic pitch black tunnels.

Near the tunnels the guides showed us several boobie traps, and a disabled US Tank left over from the Vietnam War. Judging from web sites it looks like nearly a decade later the Cu Chi Tunnels have seen a bit of renovation for the tourist.

A few links on the Cu Chi Tunnels :

Visit the Vietcong's World : Americans Welcome

Cu Chi Tunnels

2005-08-18T15:04:00.000-07:00

The World Trade Center and 9/11/01

The first time I saw the World Trade Summer was in the summer of 99. I had just graduated college and had set out an a trip across the United States. I arrived by train into Manhattan and stayed in a youth hoste l their.

Every Monday a local New Yorker would give tours of Manhattan for us tourist. About midday we arrived at the World Trade Center and took some pictures from the ground. We were short on time and money so we didn't check out the view from above.

From the winter of 2000 to the spring of 2001 I went back to New York City to live. I spent a lot of time wandering around New York City and taking in the sites. This time I had the opportunity to stand on the roof of the World Trade Center. It was nothing short of an amazing view seeing Manhattan from atop of the observation tower. You could look out and see all five boroughs of New York.

I left New York in the spring of 2001. On 9/11 I watched the destruction unfold on the news with the rest of the country. Even though I was not a New Yorker I had become familiar with the World Trade Center. It was a landmark that could be seen from all over New York. It could be seen from so many parts of the city. It dominated the skyline. I remember catching the bus every morning in Queens and looking out and seeing the World Trade Center off in the distance.

After 9/11 all flights were grounded. I still remember hearing planes in the sky for the first time again. Many people were afraid to fly and the airlines were offering incredible deals. Sun Country Airlines was offering a 75 dollar round trip ticket from Las Vegas, NV to New York City.

I purchased an airline ticket and headed out to what became known as Ground Zero.

I took a red-eye flight from Vegas to JFK. In the early morning as the airplane made its descent into JFK I could see the sight of the World Trade Center lit up by stadium lights. The plane landed and I took a subway into Manhattan. I new that the subway tunnels near the train center had most likely been destroyed or had been closed. I took the subway as close as I could to the sight and figured I would walk out the rest.

I made my ascent out of the subway and was greated by what looked like a nuclear winter. The sun was just starting to rise in the early morning. The streets were alarmingly quite and covered with that white dust. On both sides of the street the windows of skyscapers had a thick film over them. There was a smell in the air. As I neared the sight I could see smoldering twisted metal where the Twin Towers once stood. Make shift barricades were set up around the perimeter of the World Trade Center. It was a huge smoldering pile of twisted metal, concrete, and glass. Many of the surrounding buildings windows had been blown out. It looked as if there were uncontrolled fires burning beneath the surfice. The sight seemed very sureal. All you could see was twisted metal and concrete. The NYPD and the National Guard were patrolling the streets.

Amist all the rubble you could sence something sacred about the sight in the fact that knowing that so many people lost their lives there, so many people were waiting to be found, and so many people would never be found. This was the site of a war zone, a first strike against United States.

I stayed there until the sun came up. I walked around the whole perimeter of the site. Those there seemed to be in shock, everyone seemed to wonder around really quietly. It wasn't so much of a tourist spectacle but an awe of the destruction and loss. The New York Skyline would never be the same, and more than that the US would never be the same as 09/10/01.

I wondered around the city that entire day and it looked like the city had been kidnapped. Everywhere you went there were signs for missing people. On the streets attached to telephone poles, shop windows, and in the subways. Every sign had a persons face on it and a contact number. It was a collage of missing people. Most of whom were not missing but had died in the attack. It was a dark time for New York City.

I have since been back to New York city only once. I did not make it back to Ground Zero. When I saw a little more than a week after 9/11 it was an open wound. It was early in the morning and their was a reverence to it. I felt that if I went again this time it would be more of a tourist attraction.

I was in a bus terminal near Times Square when on the news CNN had announced that the US had began its attack on Afghanistan to out the Taliban and hunt down Al Quieda. The attack on the World Trade Center opened a new chapter in America History. One that is being played out
today and I suspect will continue long into the future.

I took this picture in the Spring of 2001. This was a cardboard cutout of people looking out from the Observation Tower in the World Trade Center. After 9/11 this picture took on a new light. Those staring out are ghostlike almost as if the WTC exist in another realm.

The New York Skyline of the future.

2005-08-10T11:50:00.000-07:00

A Fatboy in Dubai

The roar of the Harley Fatboy was awesome. As I opened the throttle I was cruising along sand dunes and the Persian Gulf in the United Arab Emirates. I was on a once in a lifetime motorcycle ride cruising on American steal in the Middle East.

It was September in Dubai and the weather could not have been better, a great day for a motorcycle ride. Dubai has been called the Hong Kong of the Middle East. One of the most luxurious hotels in the world the Al Burj is located there. Plans are in place for the worlds tallest building to be constructed in Dubai.

I walked in to the Harley Davidson Dealer in Dubai and came out with my rented Fatboy. Battling some of the worst drivers in the world I left the city of Dubai behind. Sand dunes rolled in the distance as far as I could see. Riding along the gulf I looked out to see if I could see any US Navy Ships staged for the ongoing war in Iraq. The sound of the engine rumbled through the air making the Harley's presence known turning heads as I passed by. There was just something really awesome about riding this machine in the Near East.

I rode that motorcycle untill the sun went down behind the sand dunes. My fiance and I rolled into the Hard Rock Cafe Dubai. It was an awesome time. Best of all gas was next to nothing ...

2005-08-07T20:36:00.000-07:00

San Juan Capistrano, California

The birthplace of Orange Country, California is the San Juan Capistrano Mission. The mission is named after a 14th Century Italian theologian St. John of Capistrano Italy. The mission had it start in 1775. One year before Thomas Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independance. Construction of the mission was halted due to Indian attacks at Mission San Diego. After a year's delay, an expedition led by Father Junipero Serra, arrived at the same site on October 31, 1776, with two padres and an escort of soldiers. The following day, November 1, 1776, the mission was officially dedicated.

I had seen several pictures of this mission sold in art galleries. With a cheap digital camera my wife and I headed out to San Juan Capistrano. Here are a few of the shots. That day was actually pretty crowded. The Mariachis were battling it out. Definately a must visit in Southern California.

2005-07-27T14:23:00.000-07:00

Villarica Volcano, Pucon - Atop an active volcano

In the Spring of 2005 my wife and I were vacationing in Chile. We took a train from Santiago to Pucon, a resort town in Southern Chile. Arriving in Pucon you cant help but notice the Villarica Volcano right outside the town. By day the volcano blows off gray smoke and a red glow by night. I hadn't seen any active volcanos in my life and I wasnt about to leave Pucon without scaling to the top of the volcano.

We got in our rental car and drove to the base of the mountain. I contemplated wether I would need to go up with a guide or be able to tackle this on my own. The sheets of ice at the top gave me some concern. It didnt look like I could hike around the ice and I did not have the proper gear for ice climbing. With visions of sliding down the mountain I made up my mind to hire a guide for the way up.

The next morning I got up early to get geared up for the climb. There was a group of about eight of us. I was the only American the rest were from countries in Europe. We were issued boots for the snow, pick axes, and packs. We were off to climb the Villarica Volcano.

The mountain looked truly awesome from the base. I could see the snow covered top and smoke billow. I imagined what it must look like to stare down into a volcano. We lucked out for the first part of the trip. The mountain is a ski resort in the winter so there is a tram the took us up the first quarter of the mountain.

Getting off the tram we started the ascent, it was no joke. Arriving at the ice sheets we put on our snow gear. As the air grew thinner with each step my feet grew heavier and the face of the mountain became steeper. We crisscrossed the face of the mountain across the ice. I dug my pick axe into the ice as to not loose my step. I had visions of sliding down the mountain. I didnt want to climb up twice, and especially didnt want to be known as the American who slid down the ice.

It was an awesome day the sun was out and sky was blue. I couldnt imagine what it would be like to climb the volcano in the winter. The mountain grew even steeper but the summit was in sight. With each step I buried my feet in the ice and buried the pick axe. Every so often I would gaze up to see my progress.

The summit was now within reach. I final push for the finish and I threw my pack off. I got as close as possible to the edge of the volcano. To see a volcano in person is nothing less than impressive. As a stared into the volcano I could see the lava bubbling inside. Every so often the lava like waves on the beach was crash against the walls of the crater and explode. I could feel the heat from the lava and the smoke made it hard to breath. Nonetheless, it was an awesome sight. While staring into the molten lava you could feel the power of the earth.

I step back for a bit and heard a sudden loud, whoosh. Red hot molten lava flew out of the crater and into the air. I looked in the sky and could see the lava floating in the air as the air that had erupted out of the volcano and caried the lava higher. Panic struck the climbers and a few almost went over the edge. The guides started yelling stop and everyone calmed down. I was in awe and to tired to move. I wish I had my videocamera going because that would have been a sight to see. I tried to estimate in my mind where the lava would land. I figured that I was just far enough away. Luckily for me I was right. As the lava fell back to the mountain top I picked up a piece as it cooled. It was still hot in my hand.

The guides decided that it would be best if we moved to a safer part of the mountain top. I had thought this was a fairly safe trip untill my guide told us about the last eruption that happened. A girl in his group had actually lost an eye from falling lava. I was amazed at the sight I had seen. The inherent danger of the volcano made it truly awesome. As I looked away from the crater I could see the Andes Mountain range in the distance. I wanted to stay up here all day.

It was time to climb back down the mountain. The way down was nothing like the way up. There were long grooves in the ice that resembled bobsled runs. One at a time we would slide on our backs down the runs while using our pick axe to slow us down. The air became not as thin and I could catch my breath much easier. The final portion of the mountain we just about ran down using gravity to our advantage.

I was back at the base. Looking back up I was amazed. I had climbed atop an active volcano. I stood on the edge and looked down in to a pit of lava. Lava erupted over my head and I had come out of without a scratch. I was tired, sun burned and dirty but I had the time of my life. Its not everyday that you care stare down into a volcano.

2005-07-26T13:38:00.000-07:00

New York City Graffiti

In my opinion everyone should live in New York City at least once in there life. I lived in New York City in 2001. I used to spend a lot of time riding the subways. Its the cheapest way to travel and when you are not in the tunnels a great way to see the city. On the 7 Train from Queens into Manhattan there is some pretty cool graffiti near Vernon Boulevard-Jackson Avenue. With nothing better to do one day I set out with my camera and took a few shots. The best part was I scaled up an old ladder up the side of a building to get a better view. Looking out you can see the Manhattan skyline.

2005-07-22T09:29:00.000-07:00

“There are only three sports: mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing. All the rest are merely games.” – Ernest Hemingway

Who can argue with Hemingway. Motorcycling is my passion. Two wheels, an engine, and miles of open road. My bike is a Harley 883R. I took this picture of my bike at a small town called Cisno, CA on the backroads to Vegas. All thats left of this place nowadays is an intersection and this rusted out store. Many more rides to follow. More of my 883R, click here.